culinary flights of fancy

Home Cooking Adventures in Berkeley Heights


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Chestnut Flour Pasta with Mixed Mushrooms in Light Cream Sauce

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Making fresh pasta can be a daunting task and one I have to admit I was a bit intimidated about tackling several years ago.  Luckily, though, it really isn’t very difficult and, like bread making, can be a very hand-on and rewarding experience.  Unfortunately, like bread making, there is also a bit of an art to making pasta and recipes for the dough can be a little off each time…a little too dry or too wet, etc.  Over time, you develop a sense for those sorts of variances and can adjust.  So, if you haven’t attempted making pasta before, it may take a few attempts for you to really get the hang of it.  Otherwise, it’s a very simple process usually involving a dough with just a couple of ingredients.

When my wife and I visited Italy recently, there were chestnuts everywhere.  Roasting on the street during festivals, the smell was pretty incredible.  Chestnut flour, though not commonly found or used here in the US, is pretty regularly used in Italy.  The chestnuts, dried and ground, flavor the pasta with a deep nutty and earthy flavor.  The moment you crack open the chestnut flour the smell envelops you. The darker flour it creates also colors the pasta in a unique way when compared to pastas made with semolina or white flours.

Chestnut pasta can be used in a variety of ways but classically it’s paired with mushrooms as the nutty earthiness of the pasta is enhanced by the earthiness of the mushrooms.  The light cream sauce helps cut through some of the overpowering earthiness to bring a nice balance of flavor.  Here, I used both dried (porcini) and fresh (crimini) mushrooms.  Feel free to use all fresh or all dried or a combination of both.  Also, fresh peas and other fresh vegetables are great to add to the mix.  However, given the unique flavor of the chestnut pasta itself, I think everyone owes it to themselves to make a simple dish at first with just a few flavors and ingredients so that you can really savor the flavor and texture of this pasta and allow it to stand on its own.  From there, go where your imagination takes you!  Recipe and notes follow after the jump… Continue reading


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Porcini Rubbed Ribeye with Veal Cognac Jus and Roasted Mushrooms and Onions

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Well this one is pretty easy.  I’m not going to write out a recipe but will give a brief summary of how to pull this together.  Just rub the ribeyes with dried porcini mushrooms that have been ground into powder with a spice grinder.  I added fine sea salt, freshly ground pepper, and red pepper flakes to the mushroom powder and then rubbed the mix on the ribeyes about  30 minutes prior to cooking.  In the mean time, I drizzled a bit of extra virgin olive oil, kosher salt, and pepper  over the mushrooms and onions and tossed them into a 375 degree oven and roasted them until caramelized and golden (around 30 minutes or so).  I then turned off the oven and let them sit in the warm oven until it was time to serve.

From there, I used a cast iron skillet and heated it on high for several minutes until it was super hot and placed the steaks in the pan- no oil.  Then I cooked the steaks for around 3 minutes per side (we like our steaks rare).  I removed them from the heat and let them rest.  I turned off the heat and placed about 1/4 cup of cognac into the pan and let it reduce (which happened quickly).  I then added about two cups of reduced veal stock ( you could use beef stock in lieu of the veal if you’d like) and let the whole thing reduce down until it was very thick-about 5 minutes or so.  I strained the sauce as there were scorched bits from the steak that surfaced.

From there, to serve I simply placed the steak on a plate, spooned the sauce over part of the steak and then around it.  I added the warm mushrooms and onion to the plate and simply tore a few Italian parsley leaves haphazardly over and around the plate.  I added a bit of flaky sea salt over the whole thing though I added too much and it ended up salty.  So, unlike me, I’d advise tasting it prior to adding more salt…rookie mistake but what can you do?  I wasn’t paying enough attention this time.  Otherwise I really liked this meal quite a bit.  If you want to make it and have questions, just let me know.  Enjoy!

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