culinary flights of fancy

Home Cooking Adventures in Berkeley Heights


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Risotto Style Einkorn Wheat with Asparagus and Ramps

Highlight the tastes of spring vegetables with grains or pastas that really allow the ingredients to shine!

Highlight the tastes of spring vegetables with grains or pastas that really allow the ingredients to shine!

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My wife and I just started receiving the first deliveries of the season from Just Farmed and the first delivery box contained farm fresh asparagus and ramps.  I am certainly excited to start cooking the warmer weather fruits and vegetables and this simple dish really allows the fresh, green, and delicious vegetables to really take center stage.  If you like great quality produce, you should definitely check out the Just Farmed program as it delivers local produce that’s mainly organic from area farms right to your door.

If you’ve never heard of ramps, they are a wild onion that has both mild onion and garlic flavors and they are found by and large up and down the mid-Atlantic and northern Atlantic states in the Eastern part of the U.S.  So, they truly are a local delicacy.  Further, they are only around for a few weeks during mainly during the early part of spring.  The greens and the whites of the ramp can be used just like a green onion/scallion.  However, since they have such a delicate flavor, it’s really best to use them in dishes where the delicate flavor doesn’t get lost in the dish.  So, think spreads, pastas with light flavored sauces, egg dishes, or flavored into grains such as rice, polenta, etc.

Einkorn wheat is an ancient grain of wheat that is found mainly in Italy.  Since it hasn’t been modified like most modern wheat, it has different taste, chemical, and digestive properties.  For one, it contains less gluten and as such people who want to watch the amount of gluten in their diet should definitely research this grain to see if it can work for them.  It won’t work for everyone and I am not advocating it as a gluten free product by any stretch.  I’m just saying it might be worth further investigation as an option for some.  Anyway, I soak the wheat for several hours up to overnight prior to cooking it.  Supposedly doing so helps with digestion but regardless of that, it certainly cuts down on the time it takes to cook the grain.

Here, I used a quart of light veal stock.  However, you can use chicken or vegetable stock, broth, or just water.  I wouldn’t suggest a heavy beef stock for this as the flavor it pretty strong and we want the spring vegetables to really shine here.  I didn’t add cheese to this dish but grating parmesan into the wheat just prior to serving would be a great addition.  Also, I used a bit of butter to sweat the onions but olive oil would work just as well.  Finally, if you want to add a bit of protein to the dish, fried or poached eggs, chicken, shrimp, beans, or other neutral flavored meats seasoned simply with salt and pepper are all great options.  Recipe follows after the jump… Continue reading


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Pearl Barley Risotto with Dandelion Greens and Farm Fresh Egg Yolk

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Most people think of barley as something that is added to soups and stews during winter. Further, most people neither think of barley as a main ingredient nor have they ever tried it as such. Pearl barley, specifically, is considered a whole grain and has wonderful nutritional benefits. The meal which includes whole grains, greens, and protein is satisfying in its own right or can be served as a first or second course. When I made it, I served a salad to start and used this dish as the main course.

This is a great anytime meal. By that, I mean you can make this year round, using whatever fresh greens you have on hand. I received some local dandelion greens and paired them with the earthy, almost sweet taste of the pearl barley. The bitterness of the greens is tempered a bit by the creaminess of both the egg yolk and the natural creaminess you achieve by cooking grains in the risotto style. Risotto is not difficult at all but it is time intensive. It requires a lot of attention as frequent stirring is a must. It also takes about 45 minutes to an hour to make. So, this is a slow cooking meal made with care. If you’ve never tried pearl barley but you enjoy risotto, this is a great entry point for you. If you’ve tried pearly barley and enjoy both the taste and the health benefits, this is a great little recipe to add to your barley repertoire.

Notes: You MUST use fresh eggs. Since the egg yolks are raw as you add them to the dish, freshness is absolutely imperative. If you don’t remember when you purchased your eggs or if the date on the eggs has passed, do not use them in this recipe. It would be better to skip the eggs completely than to use eggs that are not fresh.

Also, cooking with alcohol can be dangerous as it’s flammable. By turning off the heat and then adding the Cognac to the pan, the chances of a flare up are mitigated. However, the chance still remains even if you use this method so it’s important to be careful and aware of what you are doing and how you are doing it when cooking with alcohol. If you are unsure or uneasy about using it, just skip it completely. Better to err on the side of safety.  Recipe follows after the jump! Continue reading


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Sweet Jersey Corn Fritters

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We received a number of ears of corn over a couple of different weeks from Just Farmed, and consequently, I’ve been searching for fresh corn recipes. I made a corn and coconut pudding recipe a couple weeks ago (recipe posted). With this latest round of corn, I toyed with a sweet corn gelato. However I’ve already made a Jersey blueberry gelato (recipe forthcoming) and I am sort of tired of desserts…I’ve made a lot of them lately (at least compared to what I normally cook). So, I thought of corn bread, but despite living in Texas for years, I really don’t love corn bread. I thought about making a slaw but I’ve already done that this year. I thought about just eating it plain either on the cob or simply pan seared with a shallot, etc. However, that seemed sort of boring as well and I sort of wanted to do something with it that I could include on the blog. I settled on corn fritters.

Corn fritters are very southern…as are most things that end in ‘fritter’. They are super simple, usually only comprised of a few ingredients and then fried until golden and crispy. I looked at a ton of recipes and there are a good number out there. Most recipes I looked at seemed to include a lot of flour and required deep frying in a large amount of oil. However, I settled on a basic recipe that involved very little flour, which allowed the actual fresh corn to shine. I shallow fried it, which I liked as it used a TON less oil than what you’d need for deep frying and it takes less time to heat the oil (obviously).

I made a jalapeno mayonnaise and mixed it with a good amount of Dijon mustard and a touch of honey to use as a dipping sauce. I thought the sauce went well with the corn fritters. However, my wife, though she liked the sauce, preferred the fritters just plain, without the sauce. The corn flavor certainly comes front and center if you forego the sauce. So…up to you. Tara thought that adding a bit of diced jalapeno into the corn batter would have been a good idea. I thought about that or about adding some finely diced shallot or onion but decided since this is the first time I made the recipe that I would go with pure corn, flavored only with kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper. You could certainly season it differently going in either a savory or a sweet direction. I can imagine either would work beautifully.

I used peanut oil for frying. I chose the oil as I knew it can withstand high heat frying. I also chose it as I sometimes watch Alton Brown’s Good Eats show and he said that frying in peanut oil has a neutral smell so you don’t get that ‘fried, oily’ smell throughout your kitchen and home. That’s a real bonus as I am not a fan of frying odors. AND he was correct…there was no odor at all.

I used a large cast iron pan and fit four in at a time, so they were pretty large. You can make them larger like I did or keep them smaller. I tested the recipe using a small amount first and the small fritter turned out just as well as the larger one. I kept the oil between 350 and 375. If you don’t have a thermometer, frying is more difficult but you can do it by testing the oil at first by making a small fritter and then based on that test, adjusting the range temperature up or down as needed. You’ll need to keep a pretty constant eye on how fast the oil is cooking the fritters without the thermometer as cooking at too high a temperature will end up with burned fritters and too low will result in very soggy, oil logged fritters.

You can reuse the oil several different times, so be sure to reserve it and use it for anther recipe in the future!

For as long of an intro I made you plow through before we got to the recipe, the recipe is very, very short. Here goes…it follows after the jump! Continue reading


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Pasta with Homemade Ricotta, Swiss Chard, Spring Onions, and Homemade Breadcrumbs

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Berkeley Heights and the surrounding area has a LOT of Italian restaurants. So, I haven’t posted a lot of pasta or Italian inspired recipes because there’s so much to try at local restaurants. This one is very easy to do and is very good…and good for you. If you haven’t made ricotta from scratch, it’s quite easy and only involves a few ingredients and steps. It’s quite tasty and if you are like me, you won’t really ever buy ricotta again. All the ingredients except the pasta were either purchased fresh at the Summit Farmer’s market or obtained through Just Farmed. You can switch the types of greens and add or subtract other veggies as you like. I really like the added homemade breadcrumbs as it adds some body to the sauce and some crunch to the texture. If you don’t happen to have day old bread, don’t substitute breadcrumbs from the grocery store. They have the wrong consistency and will make the texture soggy rather than crunchy. If you don’t have the homemade breadcrumbs, I’d suggest foregoing the breadcrumbs and either just going with the rest of the ingredients as is or adding something like toasted pine nuts. Hope you enjoy the dish!  Recipe follows after the jump… Continue reading


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Jersey Corn and Coconut Pudding

Have a lot of corn at this point in your life?  Me too.  Just Farmed has supplied a ton of it to us the last couple of weeks and from what I understand we have more coming!  So, I was looking for something to do with it and ran across this recipe.  I gave my wife a number of options as to how we would use the corn and she requested that I make this.  So, I made it last weekend and it turned out great.  Both the corn and the coconut flavors came through.  Scented with a bit of cinnamon on top, it turned out to be a great dessert, though a bit sweet for my taste overall. I followed the recipe verbatim…something I almost NEVER do.   It didn’t take very long to make and it certainly isn’t a complicated recipe to follow or execute.  Anyway, if you try it, I hope you enjoy it!

Corn and Coconut Pudding:

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Trio of Summer Vegetables as Toppings for Bread or Crostini

This was published in the Alternative Press today.  Here is the article and recipe with an extra picture for your viewing pleasure!  Enjoy.

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Trio of Early Summer Vegetables as Toppings for Bread or Crostini

 

I made this basic dish for a neighborhood gathering last week and it seemed to be a hit. A couple neighbors even asked for the recipes of the various toppings. The stars here are ingredients that I either purchased directly from the Farmer’s Market in Summit or received from the farm via the Just Farmed program out of Westfield. I showcased local, seasonal ingredients: broccoli rabe, baby fennel, spring onions, and mushrooms. I also utilized three different cooking techniques: roasting, sauteing, and marinating raw vegetables. In doing so, the flavors and textures of the three dishes really became distinct, unto themselves. This dish can be completed easily within an hour if time is utilized properly. The vegetables can be made ahead of time as all three are served either warm or at room temperature. Serve with toasted bread drizzled with olive oil and accented with salt and pepper or simply serve with fresh, crusty bread cut thickly so that it can stand up to the heaviness of the toppings.  The recipes as well as a zoomed in photo of the veggies  follow after the jump! Continue reading


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Scapes and Scape Mayonnaise

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These little curly gems are plentiful this time of year here in New Jersey.  They are curly little garlic flower stocks that ironically do not flower.  Scapes, like ramps, can only be found for a short time and that time is NOW in the Jerz.  I found them at the Summit Farmer’s Market last Sunday and I received a bunch of them from the Just Farmed program out of Westfield.  At any rate, I have a ton of them now so luckily they freeze well.  I threw some in the freezer but I’ve been enjoying them in all sorts of different ways.  One basic way to use them is to simply toss them into a salad, finely chopped.  I also made a mayonnaise with scapes that turned out great.  A few weeks back, I posted a recipe for Basil Aioli and the process for making the scape mayonnaise is basically exactly the same.  I’ll post the recipe below.  However, if you are lucky enough to get your hands on a few scapes, you can add them into dishes just as you would regular garlic.  For me, they have a much more mellow flavor than regular raw garlic and evidently the scape flavor mellows even more as they age (frozen or not).  Hopefully though, we can all enjoy this brief seasonal vegetable together as it’s super tasty and, let’s face it…they are curly and fun to boot!

Scape mayonnaise recipe follows after the jump.  Enjoy! Continue reading


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Braised Escarole with Onion, Garlic, and Lemon Zest

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As I’ve mentioned, my wife and I belong to a local farm delivery service that provides mainly organic produce at the height of a particular fruit or vegetable’s growing season. The service, for locals, is called Just Farmed and operates out of Westfield. This week, we received a head of escarole. I was excited as I don’t have a lot of experience with escarole. I knew it was a bitter green and that it is typically braised. So, since I lack some experience with the vegetable, I went with a traditional cooking preparation: simply braising it in a stock with thinly sliced garlic and onion and finished with a bit of lemon zest to perk everything up. I probably would have used a shallot instead of an onion but onion is what I had on hand and I didn’t feel that it warranted a special trip to the store. So, feel free to use either…you can’t go wrong with onion or shallot (unless you’re my dad, who dislikes both). The good news here is that this dish probably takes around 30 minutes, which is a relatively short amount of time for a traditional braise.

Full disclosure: I probably overcooked this. It tasted great but I waited until the already reduced stock, reduced to a small amount of liquid in the pan and as such, I believe the escarole became overdone. So, learn from my mistake and use a small amount of stock. You can always add more if needed! Either way, the finished dish tasted great and imparted a slight bitterness that was certainly mitigated by the sweetness of the onion and hint of lemon zest.  Recipe follows after the jump.  Enjoy! Continue reading