culinary flights of fancy

Home Cooking Adventures in Berkeley Heights


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Off the Shelf: The Classic Italian Cookbook by Marcella Hazan

Asparagus with Parmesan Cheese and Fried Eggs

Enjoy this hearty dish as a starter or as a main course.  Like the best of Italian dishes, this dish is simple and complex at the same time!

Enjoy this hearty dish as a starter or as a main course. Like the best of Italian dishes, this dish is simple and complex at the same time!

Roast the asparagus.  I layered the asparagus spears with grated Parmesan cheese.

Roast the asparagus. I layered the asparagus spears with grated Parmesan cheese.

You know, there are a lot of great cookbooks released every day and most of them contain updates and new approaches to classic dishes and/or new flavor combinations that are both interesting and exciting.  However, there is something to be said for the timelessness of classic cookbooks.  So, from time to time, I’m going to highlight recipes that may have fallen out of fashion or slipped through the cracks from cookbooks past.  Marcella Hazan’s classic cookbook, The Classic Italian Cookbook is a great place to start.  I love the fact that the tagline beneath the title of this cookbook is:  The art of Italian cooking and the Italian art of eating.  Somehow lost in the various mounds of recipes we forget that eating and enjoyment of food is an art in and of itself but that wasn’t lost on Marcella Hazan.

This dish presents the best of Italian cooking in that it celebrates seasonality and simplicity while at the same time combining those simple flavors into something much bigger than its’ individual components.  This dish is traditionally served as a starter but certainly could suffice as a main course.  The book suggests serving two eggs per person as a main or one egg as a starter.  In my copy of the book the exact recipe can be found on pages 356-357.  The recipe below deviates from the recipe as written just slightly as she suggest to use an asparagus steamer and I skipped that step.  Also, I reduced the amount of butter used to fry the eggs.  I also reduced the roasting temperature from 450 degrees to 425 as I didn’t steam the vegetable prior to roasting so it needed a bit more time in the oven.  At 450 degrees, the cheese would have melted very quickly and burned before the asparagus was cooked through.  Other than that, everything else remained the same.  Recipe follows after the jump… Continue reading


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Risotto Style Einkorn Wheat with Asparagus and Ramps

Highlight the tastes of spring vegetables with grains or pastas that really allow the ingredients to shine!

Highlight the tastes of spring vegetables with grains or pastas that really allow the ingredients to shine!

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My wife and I just started receiving the first deliveries of the season from Just Farmed and the first delivery box contained farm fresh asparagus and ramps.  I am certainly excited to start cooking the warmer weather fruits and vegetables and this simple dish really allows the fresh, green, and delicious vegetables to really take center stage.  If you like great quality produce, you should definitely check out the Just Farmed program as it delivers local produce that’s mainly organic from area farms right to your door.

If you’ve never heard of ramps, they are a wild onion that has both mild onion and garlic flavors and they are found by and large up and down the mid-Atlantic and northern Atlantic states in the Eastern part of the U.S.  So, they truly are a local delicacy.  Further, they are only around for a few weeks during mainly during the early part of spring.  The greens and the whites of the ramp can be used just like a green onion/scallion.  However, since they have such a delicate flavor, it’s really best to use them in dishes where the delicate flavor doesn’t get lost in the dish.  So, think spreads, pastas with light flavored sauces, egg dishes, or flavored into grains such as rice, polenta, etc.

Einkorn wheat is an ancient grain of wheat that is found mainly in Italy.  Since it hasn’t been modified like most modern wheat, it has different taste, chemical, and digestive properties.  For one, it contains less gluten and as such people who want to watch the amount of gluten in their diet should definitely research this grain to see if it can work for them.  It won’t work for everyone and I am not advocating it as a gluten free product by any stretch.  I’m just saying it might be worth further investigation as an option for some.  Anyway, I soak the wheat for several hours up to overnight prior to cooking it.  Supposedly doing so helps with digestion but regardless of that, it certainly cuts down on the time it takes to cook the grain.

Here, I used a quart of light veal stock.  However, you can use chicken or vegetable stock, broth, or just water.  I wouldn’t suggest a heavy beef stock for this as the flavor it pretty strong and we want the spring vegetables to really shine here.  I didn’t add cheese to this dish but grating parmesan into the wheat just prior to serving would be a great addition.  Also, I used a bit of butter to sweat the onions but olive oil would work just as well.  Finally, if you want to add a bit of protein to the dish, fried or poached eggs, chicken, shrimp, beans, or other neutral flavored meats seasoned simply with salt and pepper are all great options.  Recipe follows after the jump… Continue reading