culinary flights of fancy

Home Cooking Adventures in Berkeley Heights


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Lavender, Honey, and Sherry Braised Short Ribs

Lavender, honey, and sherry short ribs with risotto style farro and wilted greens.

Lavender, honey, and sherry short ribs with risotto style farro and wilted greens.

Raw thinly sliced radishes and spring onions add an earthiness and slight spiciness to the sweetness of the lavender honey sherry reduction.  Balance the whole dish with a very small drizzle of sherry vinegar.

Raw thinly sliced radishes and spring onions add an earthiness and slight spiciness to the sweetness of the lavender honey sherry reduction. Balance the whole dish with a very small drizzle of sherry vinegar.

This is another seasonal transition dish that marries hearty braised short ribs with some liter, more spring-like flavors.  I paired the short ribs with risotto style farro, wilted greens, and the braising vegetables and garnished it with thinly sliced radishes and spring onions.  This dish would be great with any rice or grain.  You can also skip it completely and serve it simply with vegetables and maybe some crusty bread to soak up the beautiful sherry and veal stock reduction that’s scented with lavender and honey.  Here I used a sweet sherry and, coupled with the honey, was almost too sweet.  So, if you prefer your main meals more on the savory side of the spectrum, simply use a dry sherry instead.  It will be great either way.  However, if you do use a sweet sherry, the extra sweetness added a nice balance to the earthiness of the farro, greens, radishes, and onions.  If you don’t have sherry, feel free to use a good quality white wine…it will turn out just as great.  Recipe follows after the jump… Continue reading


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Roasted Leg of Lamb with Tuscan Herbs and Garlic

Whole leg of lamb just prior to carving.

Whole leg of lamb just prior to carving.

Plated leg of lamb with polenta, roasted sweet potatoes and carrots, veal demi-glace, and tomato reduction.  Garnished with watercress.  Notice the three different pieces and their varying levels of doneness.

Plated leg of lamb with polenta, roasted sweet potatoes and carrots, veal demi-glace, and tomato reduction. Garnished with watercress. Notice the three different pieces and their varying levels of doneness.

I don’t absolutely love lamb so I don’t make it very often.  However, Tara really loves it and when my parents visited last weekend, they requested that I make a lamb dish.  So, I opted for roasting a leg of lamb.  It feeds a crowd and is pretty forgiving.  The other bonus is that it produces slices of meat with varying levels of doneness so if you enjoy rare meat, it’s there.  Likewise, if you prefer your lamb on the medium or medium rare side, the leg provides slices at that temperature too.  I think a lot of people might get a bit intimidated with the leg of lamb because of both the size of the meat as well as the perceived time it takes to cook.  The good news here is that it really doesn’t take longer than a traditional roast pork or beef.  I started it at a very high oven temperature and allowed it to cook for about 20 minutes and then lowered the temperature, removed it from the oven, and rubbed it all over with the garlic and herbs before returning it to the oven at a much lower temperature to finish cooking for about an hour.  As it turns out, everyone (myself included) really liked the lamb so I will definitely make it again at some point in the near future.

I paired the lamb with roasted vegetables and polenta and accented that with a veal reduction and tomato reduction and a touch of watercress.  It was very good that way but if you don’t want to make the veal reduction or the tomato reduction, you can certainly skip one or both.  The dish would be delicious without it as well.  Recipe and more pictures after the jump… Continue reading


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Easter Celebration Menu: Fresh ham with Provencal Herbs and basted in French wine

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Try this for your Easter celebration on Sunday.  It’s very easy, feeds a crowd, and is unbelievably good.  I used a red wine here but a good French wine will work just as well.  I plan to make a Swiss chard gratin, salad, bread, and some other sort of vegetable dish to be determined.  I haven’t sorted out dessert yet either but will post the full menu once I figure it out.  Until then, check this recipe out and give it a try!  PS- this is a recipe from last summer.  I’m reposting it because this is the dish we landed on for Easter this year…my Italian Easter Pie idea was nixed (boo!).

I don’t have a lot of experience with fresh ham. This is actually only the second time I’ve cooked one, though it’s such a massive piece of meat, you can adapt all sorts of recipes for leftovers after your initial meal. For me, there are a few advantages of cooking a fresh ham. First, and foremost, you get a lot of bang for your buck. It’s a great value and it’s sort of a showstopper for a dinner party because it doesn’t really look like a ham and if well roasted, it looks great and tastes really good too! In fact, if you have never had a fresh ham, it really tastes more like a pork loin roast than a typical ham. That difference in taste stems from the fact that it’s fresh or raw. In other words, most hams in grocery stores are usually cured for a number of days in a salt, sugar, spice and who knows what else mixture then slowly smoked. The fresh ham has not had anything done to it so the pork flavor takes center stage. Another really great thing about a fresh ham is that you can ask for the skin to remain on, thus giving you a crispy, browned outer crust. Underneath the crust you get a nice layer of fat that keeps the meat moist and succulent. Basted with French white or red wine, it takes on a nice natural sweetness and acidity as well.

The first time I made a fresh ham it was for a large dinner party for my wife’s co-workers and I made a 20 pound ham. It was huge, barely fitting in our oven. However it did and it worked out great. It easily fed the dinner party and we had lots of leftovers for sandwiches, etc. I actually made homemade Cuban sandwiches with some of the leftovers, complete with homemade Cuban loaves of bread and homemade yellow mustard. It was pretty great. Another little nerdy chef-y benefit to the fresh ham is that I get a fairly large leg bone (yep, the ham is a portion of the leg) that I can make stock out of. Last time I had one, I made a really great combination stock with the pork leg bone, the bones of one chicken, some beef bones with marrow still intact, and rounded out with a bunch of aromatic vegetables and herbs. I use this stock all the time…it made a ton and it’s super tasty. It imparts a great flavor to sauces, braises, stews, etc. Who knows what sort of stock I’m make with this leg bone, but I certainly will make some sort of stock with it!

This time, however, I chose to make a fresh ham as we are having a few relatives over for a number of days and wanted something that we could quickly pull out for dinner, have for lunch, or use for breakfast. I went with a 13 pound ham this time but will cook it in the same manner…rubbed with homemade dried herbs and sea salt, roasted slowly, and basting in a red French wine flavored with thyme, fresh bay leaves, and other aromatics. Luckily it won’t take four to five hours like the 20 pounder did!

I purchased both hams from Barth’s Meat Market in New Providence. They are definitely my go to butcher shop. I made pate the other day and needed ground pork liver…they procured it for me and ground in their grinder despite the fact that they definitely had to disassemble and clean every piece of the machine once it was finished. They did all of that for one customer and I only needed half a pound of the stuff. Talk about a business going above and beyond for a picky but very grateful customer! Anyhow, Barth’s makes their own regular, traditionally smoked hams that they have available all the time. As such, they usually have a fresh ham or two around because they prepare their smoked, cured hams from scratch. Luckily for anyone looking for a fresh ham, then, you don’t really need to even special order this special occasion cut of meat.

As for serving the dish, I plan to put it out on a platter and have it handy anytime for any meal. It’s so versatile that it really could be served for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. I will probably make a croque madame with it at some point. Can’t beat that! However, I made a homemade tartar sauce that goes great with it. Tartar sauce obviously goes wonderfully with fish but isn’t a ‘fish’ sauce alone. It’s a flavored mayonnaise seasoned with parsley, pickles, shallots, garlic, lemon juice, capers, and Dijon mustard (all of which go great with ham). Anyway, a bit of ham and some tartar sauce coupled with some summer vegetables or a salad will work great!

The recipe for the ham follows after the jump but keep in mind, you can spice it anyway you’d like and you can certainly cure it or brine it yourself prior to roasting it. I haven’t done either of those things yet…perhaps one day. For now, I’m going to enjoy a great slow roasted piece of pork seasoned with traditional French herbs and wine. Hope you try a fresh ham and enjoy it as much as Tara and I have.

Note: I used red French wine this time around. The first time I made a fresh ham, I basted it in a French white. After having now tried both, I definitely prefer the look and taste of the white wine baste. The red tastes just fine and certainly gave the ham a deep red brown hue, which I think looks great. The taste of the red wine is more forward, giving it a sticky, almost jam like feature to the outside crust. So all in all, not so bad. However, if I had to choose again in future, I would definitely go with white wine.

Recipe follows after the jump! Continue reading