culinary flights of fancy

Home Cooking Adventures in Berkeley Heights


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Ratatouille: A Summer Classic

Summer's bounty of produce comes together in a classic French stew.

Summer’s bounty of produce comes together in a classic French stew.

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I have made more than my fair share of ratatouille this year.  In fact, I’ve made the recipe that follows almost weekly as both my wife and I love it.  I also make a ton of it and the good news is that it freezes well so you can bring it out during winter when the weather has turned and you are pining for some of the great produce from the summer months.  I made this dish in culinary school as it is a classic French preparation.  As you can imagine, it can get a little finicky in school as you had to peel and seed all the vegetables.  I usually peel the tomatoes when I cook this at home but I don’t all of the time.  For home cooking purposes, I really think you can get as fancy or as ‘rustic’ as you prefer.  So, if you want to peel and seed everything, that’s great.  If you prefer to skip all of that entirely, go for it.  As I mentioned, I fall in the middle of that, preferring to peel the tomatoes and seed the squash.  Otherwise, I simply chop the veggies to decent bite sized pieces and sauté them until golden.  From there, you simply combine all of the ingredients and allow them to stew for at least 30 minutes up to several hours.  To finish add a mix of fresh herbs and a touch of olive oil and a splash of wine vinegar.  It’s really a quintessential way to use all the fresh tomatoes, peppers, squash, eggplant, and onions we have here in New Jersey in one dish and celebrate the bounty of this season while it lasts…can you believe we are almost to September!?!  Recipe follows after the jump. Continue reading


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Sweet Corn and Coconut Ice Cream

Sweet Corn and coconut combine to create an ice cream inspired by a classic Latin American pudding recipe.

Sweet Corn and coconut combine to create an ice cream inspired by a classic Latin American pudding recipe.

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Sweet Corn and Coconut Ice Cream:

It is hot out and as such ice cream sounds pretty good!  This ice cream was inspired by a classic Latin American pudding recipe containing the same main ingredients.  To impart a strong corn flavor the corn is removed from the husks and later used as an ingredient in the ice cream.  The husks are retained and steeped in warm milk, which helps impart a strong corn flavor.  I like this recipe because we have such great corn here in New Jersey and right now it both tastes great and is a real bargain.

In this recipe, I kept the corn kernels whole.  If you prefer a more smoothly textured ice cream, feel free to puree it.  If you go this route, you should use approximately 1 cup of the corn puree.  Process it in the same manner you would the whole kernels as indicated.  Recipe follows after the jump… Continue reading


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Taste Around Town in Berkeley Heights (August 10th-23rd)

Hi.  As most of you know, I write a regular weekly column for TapInto.net that is picked up by various towns around the area.  Much like here, the column focuses on new recipes.  However, I do like to visit restaurants and try different things.  As such, TapInto.net Berkeley Heights is hosting a Taste Around Berkeley Heights with lots of different specials at many of the restaurants around our town.

Restaurants range from fairly inexpensive to some of the pricier local choices.  So, if you are looking for a nice night out, this is a great time to sample our local fare.  The specials run for a couple of weeks and if you participate you even have a chance to win/earn prizes.  Here is the link with the details of the program as well as the specifics on the specials offered at each restaurant.  I hope everyone who is local takes advantage of the specials and supports our local restaurants…there are good deals to be enjoyed (and everyone needs a break from the kitchen every once in a while, right?).


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Mixed Tomato Summer Salad with Red Onion, Mild Peppers, and Mixed Herbs

Enjoy this summer salad as a starter or as a side dish.

Enjoy this summer salad as a starter or as a side dish.

Use the freshest ingredients you can find at the height of the summer vegetable and fruit season.  Substitute out one ingredient for another feeling free to use both fruits and vegetables together.

Use the freshest ingredients you can find at the height of the summer vegetable and fruit season. Substitute out one ingredient for another feeling free to use both fruits and vegetables together.

As I’m sure you’ve noticed, it’s really hot out and it seems that the heat is going to continue for a few more days.  During this type of heat, creating things that require quick cooking techniques allows me to keep ovens and burners off and, consequently, not get so hot in the kitchen.  Better yet, salads and side dishes that require no heat provide a respite from the heat and given how great the New Jersey produce is right now, you really can’t go wrong.  This salad is simple with just a few ingredients that are fully in season and truly tasty.  The best thing to do when good quality produce is readily available is to celebrate just how great it tastes by getting out of its way and simply allowing the ingredients to shine.

Here, I used red, green, and yellow tomatoes and paired them with a touch of shaved red onion, a touch of green onion tops that I sliced thinly, a couple different mild peppers, and a mix of fresh mint and fresh Italian parsley.  I seasoned it all very simply with flaky sea salt and a simple drizzle of good quality olive oil and a good quality vinegar (I used sherry but please just use the best quality vinegar you have).  You can certainly substitute out ingredients here and if you prefer more or different herbs, feel free to use those.  As long as you keep it simple so that the fresh, summer produce you choose is able to shine.  This dish can certainly serve as a first course or if you prefer, it would certainly shine as a side dish.

As an aside, if you feel your onions taste too strong, simply place them in a bowl and squeeze some lemon juice and a bit of water over them and allow the onions to sit for 10-20 minutes.  This will mellow the strong onion flavor.  Be sure, however, to dry the onions prior to using them in the salad so that the extra moisture doesn’t take away from the natural juices created by the tomato and olive oil and vinegar.  Recipe follows after the jump…

Ingredients:

  • 2-4 Tomatoes using a mix of colors and sizes
  • 2-3 Cherry tomatoes
  • ¼ Red onion, sliced very thinly
  • 1 Green onion, thinly sliced on a bias.
  • 2 Mild peppers, each with different colors. Different varieties would be ideal.  I used cubanelle and shishito.
  • 1 Tablespoon fresh mint, coarsely chopped (use more to taste if desired)
  • 1 Tablespoon fresh Italian parsley, coarsely chopped (use more to taste if desired)
  • Good quality extra virgin olive oil
  • Good quality vinegar (I used sherry vinegar)
  • Flaky sea salt such as fleur de sel, gray salt, or Maldon salt (I used gray salt).
  • Freshly cracked black pepper or red pepper flakes if desired

Instructions:

  • Cut the tomatoes into quarters or eighths depending on the size of the tomato. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half.  Place the tomato wedges in a large bowl.
  • Then prepare the onions by thinly slicing the red onion and thinly slicing the green onion on a bias. Then add them to the bowl with the tomatoes.
  • Cut the peppers into different shapes, keeping them coarsely chopped. If you prefer, remove the seeds from the peppers.  I chose not to do that.  Place in bowl.
  • Add a couple tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil and a drizzle of good quality vinegar over the top of the vegetables. Add a sprinkle of flaky sea salt over the top of that and then gently toss the vegetables ensuring that they all are coated with the oil and vinegar.  You will know if they are as they will have a shine and sheen to them.
  • Allow the vegetables to sit at room temperature for 5-10 minutes. This will allow the tomatoes to release liquid, thus creating a nice, loose, natural dressing.
  • After the resting time has expired, add the mint and parsley and gently toss the vegetables again. Taste and adjust seasoning by adding more salt, pepper, olive oil, or vinegar as necessary to suit your taste.

Place the vegetables on a plate, ensuring all the different types and colors of tomatoes are part of each serving.  Add more per plate if you are serving this as a salad or less if you are using this as a side dish.  Using a tablespoon, carefully drizzle some of the accumulated liquid from the vegetable bowl over the top of the plated vegetables.  Serve immediately while cool.


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Off the Shelf: The Classic Italian Cookbook by Marcella Hazan

Asparagus with Parmesan Cheese and Fried Eggs

Enjoy this hearty dish as a starter or as a main course.  Like the best of Italian dishes, this dish is simple and complex at the same time!

Enjoy this hearty dish as a starter or as a main course. Like the best of Italian dishes, this dish is simple and complex at the same time!

Roast the asparagus.  I layered the asparagus spears with grated Parmesan cheese.

Roast the asparagus. I layered the asparagus spears with grated Parmesan cheese.

You know, there are a lot of great cookbooks released every day and most of them contain updates and new approaches to classic dishes and/or new flavor combinations that are both interesting and exciting.  However, there is something to be said for the timelessness of classic cookbooks.  So, from time to time, I’m going to highlight recipes that may have fallen out of fashion or slipped through the cracks from cookbooks past.  Marcella Hazan’s classic cookbook, The Classic Italian Cookbook is a great place to start.  I love the fact that the tagline beneath the title of this cookbook is:  The art of Italian cooking and the Italian art of eating.  Somehow lost in the various mounds of recipes we forget that eating and enjoyment of food is an art in and of itself but that wasn’t lost on Marcella Hazan.

This dish presents the best of Italian cooking in that it celebrates seasonality and simplicity while at the same time combining those simple flavors into something much bigger than its’ individual components.  This dish is traditionally served as a starter but certainly could suffice as a main course.  The book suggests serving two eggs per person as a main or one egg as a starter.  In my copy of the book the exact recipe can be found on pages 356-357.  The recipe below deviates from the recipe as written just slightly as she suggest to use an asparagus steamer and I skipped that step.  Also, I reduced the amount of butter used to fry the eggs.  I also reduced the roasting temperature from 450 degrees to 425 as I didn’t steam the vegetable prior to roasting so it needed a bit more time in the oven.  At 450 degrees, the cheese would have melted very quickly and burned before the asparagus was cooked through.  Other than that, everything else remained the same.  Recipe follows after the jump… Continue reading


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Tagliatelle Pasta with Squash Blossom, Spring Onion, and Ricotta

Delicate squash blossoms are tossed in raw at the very end allowing the residual heat from the cooked pasta to lightly wilt them.

Delicate squash blossoms are tossed in raw at the very end allowing the residual heat from the cooked pasta to lightly wilt them.

Gently toss the squash blossoms into the pasta as they will tear and break very easily.

Gently toss the squash blossoms into the pasta as they will tear and break very easily.

It’s been a while…I hope you are well.  I’m kicking things off with this very summery pasta dish that happens to be both beautiful and simple to make.  It’s pretty delicious as well!  Stay tuned as there’s lots more ahead…I’ve been cooking a lot and am way behind on writing the recipes up for publishing.  I hope to correct that very soon with a slew of new things to keep you busy!  I apologize for the delay.

Squash blossoms are available in markets and farmer’s markets but you have to look for them.  If you go to a farmer’s market, you will likely have to arrive early to find them as they usually go quickly.  As implied by the name, they are simply blossoms found on the plants of summer squash.  They have a delicate squash flavor and are really beautiful.  Unfortunately, as they are delicate, they have a tendency to go bad rather quickly so it’s best to use them the same day you buy them.  Since they do have a more subtle flavor they can take on various flavors rather quickly and can easily be overpowered.  Traditionally, they are often served stuffed with ricotta and delicate, lightly flavored herbs such as parsley and chives.  Sometimes they are steamed or flash sautéed with just a touch of olive oil.  Another very popular thing to do is stuff them as above but then lightly bread them and serve them fried.  I love stuffed squash blossoms but sometimes they are small and since they are delicate, they can fall apart rather easily while attempting to stuff them.  So this is a great recipe to use if you find yourself with small blossoms.  Further, if you are like me, and you just want to make it easy on yourself sometimes, skip stuffing them and simply toss them in some pasta with the same flavor profiles used when stuffing.  This is a fast and easy pasta dish that is great either for a weekday meal or for a more special occasion because no matter how you serve them, they really are striking in their presentation.  Recipe follows after the jump… Continue reading


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Wild Caught Alaskan Salmon Poached In Vinho Verde with Garlic Scapes

A good piece of fish should really be celebrated by using simple seasoning and cooking methods so that the beauty of the fish shines through!

A good piece of fish should really be celebrated by using simple seasoning and cooking methods so that the beauty of the fish shines through!

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Wild Alaskan Salmon Poached In Vinho Verde with Garlic Scapes:

When you have a beautiful piece of fish, you really don’t need to do a whole lot to it.  Rather, restraint is really the rule of the day so that the subtle flavors really shine.  As such, poaching is a great way to cook a special piece of fish.  There’s no browning, crisping the skin, etc.  It’s just a very simple and fairly quick way to prepare the fish, imparting slight flavors from the poaching liquid but really still keeping things simple.  Here, I chose to poach the salmon in a Vinho Verde and I chose it for a couple of reasons.  First, this type of Portuguese wine is relatively inexpensive, which makes it a great choice to use as a cooking wine.  Secondly, it is a young wine that doesn’t have too much complexity in terms of taste.  It just has a nice straight forward taste that has nice acidity.  It’s easy to drink and, when cooking it adds just enough flavor to a dish without completely overpowering the dish.

Garlic scapes, also called garlic shoots, are pretty great.  They look interesting in that they are bright green and have a curly shape.  They possess a garlic flavor that I think is slightly less dramatic than regular garlic cloves.  Scapes can be found right around this time and for a few more weeks moving forward at farmer’s markets and certain specialty stores.  Here, I kept them whole but you can chop them up as finely or as coarsely as you like and you use them just as you would a regular clove of garlic.  Since they are only available for a few weeks, if you find them, I’d suggest stocking up…they freeze pretty well!  Recipe follows after the jump… Continue reading


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Slowly Scrambled Eggs with Spring Onions and Parmesan Reggiano over Wilted Spinach

Creamy scrambled eggs over wilted greens is a quick and easy way to have a meal that tastes great and is easy on the budget.

Creamy scrambled eggs over wilted greens is a quick and easy way to have a meal that tastes great and is easy on the budget.

People often ask me what we normally have for dinner.  We do eat some special meals at home as I experiment around in the kitchen in order to write this column, etc.  However, usually a day to day meal for us really is something simple.  Vegetables, salads, beans, lentils, roasted chicken, and simple egg dishes are all pretty common dinner components during the week.  I love making eggs and breakfast dishes in general for dinner.  It’s usually rather quick from a time perspective and if you purchase good quality eggs from the farmer’s market or the grocery store, they are also quite tasty.  Eggs are also one of the few foods that contain a complete protein.  As an extra bonus, even if you purchase pricier eggs at the farmer’s market, they are still one of the most economical sources of protein available given a dozen eggs will likely yield at least two meals for most and, even if your family is larger and a dozen only works for one meal, $6-$7 for protein is still less than almost any other meal you can make.  Further, there are literally tons of different things you can do with them.

I make eggs for dinner in a number of different ways.  Usually I will fry or poach them.  However, every once in a while, I will slowly cook the eggs, scrambling them as they slowly simmer until they are just a little underdone and still creamy.  Sometimes I leave them as is with just a touch of salt while other times I will add in cheese and other vegetables.  In this case, I added a bit of spring onion at the end of cooking and grated just a touch of parmesan reggiano over the top to finish.  I spooned the eggs over freshly wilted spinach from the farm.  If you wish, you could spoon the eggs and spinach over toasted or grilled bread.  We enjoyed this simple dinner just as pictured.  Recipe follows after the jump… Continue reading


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Seared Ribeye with Polenta, Broccoli Rabe, and Spring Vegetables

Colorful spring vegetables coupled with rare, sliced ribeye and naturally creamy polenta.

Colorful spring vegetables coupled with rare, sliced ribeye and naturally creamy polenta.

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I’ve mentioned this before but I’ll say it again:  ribeye is by far my favorite cut of steak.  Here, it is rubbed with a few spices, cooked rare, and then cut into strips.  Cutting the steak into strips is a great way to enjoy beef without eating a huge amount.  Instead, you get the flavor of the beef and enhance the flavor with fresh vegetables of the season.  The extra bonus about serving beef this way is that you cut down on how much you need to purchase.  In fact, in this case, a large 16 ounce steak can serve four.  I chose a simple pan cooked broccoli rabe which has a subtle bitterness to play off the sweeter corn based polenta.  The raw tomatoes add color and some acidity and the whole thing is then simply garnished with a sprinkling of raw, thinly sliced spring onions.  I finished the dish with just a touch of heated veal stock to bring a light sauce and more meatiness to the dish.  If you don’t have veal stock, you can certainly skip it all together or if you prefer, simply drizzle just a touch of olive oil over the top.  Either way, you can’t go wrong!  Recipe follows after the jump… Continue reading

Roasted Corn with Citrus Honey Cilantro and Queso Fresco

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A recipe from last Summer that might be just the thing to kick off Summer at your weekend BBQ. Happy Memorial Day!

Craig's avatarculinary flights of fancy

Roasted Corn with Citrus Honey Cilantro and Queso Fresco

This simple dish is a great side dish during a meal or eaten as an appetizer the same way you would at a street fair.  Loaded with flavor, this sweet and savory dish, should please children and adults alike!  Since Jersey corn is plentiful, inexpensive, and delicious, this is a great option to feed the family a budget friendly dish that tastes great.  It’s also a great little side dish for the upcoming long weekend.

Ingredients:

4 ears of Jersey Corn (husked, silks removed)

4 tablespoons room temperature unsalted butter

Zest of one lime

1 generous tablespoon honey

1 bunch fresh cilantro- chopped

1 teaspoon chili powder (ancho or chipotle is ideal)

6 Tablespoons queso fresco

2 Tablespoons Vegetable Oil

Kosher Salt and Fresh Pepper

Instructions:

  • Preheat grill to 450 (or so) about 20 minutes if using a gas grill.
  • Gather all ingredients as the grill comes to temperature.
  • Remove…

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